SAUCE, GRAVY, SUNDAY SAUCE, "RED SAUCE" or SUGO ? What is it. It can be a couple different things. It depends on who you are talking to, if they are Italian-American or not, where their family comes from in Italy, and what Italian Enclave in America they grew up in : New York City, Boston, New Jersey, Baltimore, Cleveland, Chicago, or wherever?
Some, when they say Sauce, Sugo, or Gravy, they can be talking about a Tomato Sauce that was cooked with or without meat in it. They can be talking about a Tomato Sauce that was cooked with Meat in it, and the Sauce is served, dressing Maccheroni, but with the Sauce removed, for the Meat ( or Meats) to be served later in the meal, or put aside, refrigerated and served at another time.
Usually, when someone says "Gravy" they are referring to a sauce made with Tomatoes that meats, such as Italian Sausages, Braciola, Pork Ribs, Meatballs, and or Pork or Beef Neck, maybe chicken parts, Beef Chuck, or veal, in which the sauce is cooked with any combination of some of these meats mentioned, and possibly other meats, such as Lamb or Beef Short Ribs, whatever?
There is no one right answer to what is Italian-American Gravy, "Sauce" Sunday Gravy, Sugo, or Sunday Sauce. Again, it just depends on who is talking and their family background and history. There is now one standard answer, "No Right or Wrong." The main and most important thing is that the dish taste good.
Ragù in Naples is religion. A preparation that takes a very long time and requires considerable attention: it is not enough to cook meat and sauce for a long time. It takes seven or eight hours for this Sunday lunch dressing, so much so that the most shrewd recipes recommend leaving on Saturday: in fact, although in Naples you have a late lunch, and on Sunday even more, you should wake up before dawn to be ready just in time. In addition, the next day the sauce, as happens with many traditional preparations, condenses and settles, becoming even richer and full of nuances.
Eduardo De Filippo's memorable comedy, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, revolves around a meat sauce, and in the most realistic stagings the initial sauté is really prepared, spreading an incredible smell from the stage to the whole theater. Eduardo himself dedicated a short and beautiful poem to the ragù. The most evident peculiarity of the Neapolitan ragù is that, unlike the Bolognese sauce, the meat is not minced but comes in whole pieces: hence both the need to cook longer, and the possibility of having a complete meal, sauce to season the pasta and meat for the main course. The long preparation makes this recipe perfect for when we have a lot of time to spend at home: let's give it a try.
Meat and other ingredients of Neapolitan Ragù
What is the right meat to make ragù? Here there are as many versions as there are families in Naples and its surroundings. The general agreement is that a mixture of types is needed, certainly beef, but going into the specifics here are the differences: there are those who mix beef and pork and those who consider pork out of place; there are those who put sausages and those who even put meatballs in it; There are those who make a rind roll and those who add the further complication of the chop. Which is not grilled meat but the way it is called a particular wrap made with the locena (under the shoulder), stuffed with salt, pepper, raisins, pine nuts, chopped garlic and parsley, diced pecorino cheese.
Let's take an average between the most fundamentalist traditions and a availability within anyone's reach, and let's get the following cuts: a first choice of beef such as colarda (culata) or pezza a cinnamon (shoulder), a second choice such as lacerto (girello or magatello), a cut of pork such as tracchie or tracchiulelle (trimmings). Another key ingredient is tomato paste. Finally, the ideal would be to cook the Neapolitan-style ragù in the cuoccio, which is a terracotta pot.
The preparation of Neapolitan ragù
Sauté the onion in extra virgin olive oil, very gently. Add the meat and brown it well on all sides, always over low heat. Let it evaporate with the wine, strictly red: this operation should be carried out several times, not in one fell swoop. Then add the tomato paste a little at a time, making sure that it darkens but does not burn. During these operations, the meat will have to be turned over several times, so it is not the time to move away and lose sight of the sauce. Finally, add the tomato puree, possibly with half a glass of water, no more, and raising the heat gently, and for no more than a few minutes, just to rebalance the insertion of cold ingredients.
At this point, and at least two hours will have passed, the ragù must pippiare: this is the secret of the Neapolitan ragù, an effect that does not correspond precisely to the Italian simmering, and which consists of a slow evaporation, which produces an almost imperceptible noise and a movement bordering on the invisible on the surface of the sauce. To obtain it, it must not be covered - otherwise all the steam would condense and fall back into the sauce, watering it down - nor leave uncovered, at the risk of not being able to keep the temperature stable: place the lid slightly offset on one side, and held up on the other side with the inevitable wooden spoon.
This very thick and dark sauce is perfect for seasoning a large pasta such as paccheri, but its traditional accompaniment is smooth zite broken by hand. Welcome to Naples.
John's of 12th Street, is one of New York's oldest and best Old School Red Sauce Joints,
left in New York. The restaurant is known for its Old World Charm, still having its original 1908 decor. John's was opened in 1908 by John Pucciatti.
John's serves all the classic Old School Italian Cuisine you'd expect, like; Bake Clams Oreganata, Clams Posillipo, Speeding all Romano. Chicken and Veal Parm, Spaghetti with Clam Sauce, Lasagna, Manicotti, Spaghetti & Meatballs, and one of the best plates of Spaghetti Carbonara in town.
MONTE'S TRATTORIA
SINCE 1918
GREENWICH VILLAGE, NY
Since 1918, this classic spot has been feeding Villagers abundant servings of minestrone, bread-crumbed Baked Artichokes, Manicotti, Veal & Chicken Parm, Spaghetti with Clam Sauce, Housemade Ravioli, Lasagna, Spaghetti & Meatballs and more. And they say Chef Pietro's TiraMiSu is the Best in Town.
Monte's has been owned by just 3 Italian Families in its 107 History. It is a lively welcoming place, filled with local regulars, as well as regulars from around the country. People from around the world love Monte's too. Try it's one of just over a handful of Old School Italian Restaurants left in New York, and it's well worth the trip.
RAO'S
SINCE 1896
EAST HARLEM, NEW YORK
Copyright - Bellino 2025
"Rao's" was founded in 1896, starting out as a Saloon up in East Harlem. It is still owned by the founding family, operating for 4 generations, with Frank Pelligrino Jr. as the current owner.
Rao's specialises in classic Southern Italian Cuisine, including: Bake Clams, Roast Peppers, Spaghetti & Meatballs, Linguine with Clams, Veal Parmigiana, and Rao's Famous "Lemon Chicken," a must have.
The food, ambiance, and decor at Rao's is classic "Old School Italian," of which we have already mentioned, there are barely a handful of these wonderful old Italian Restaurants left (only 8).
And there's one problem with Rao's? You can't get in. If you don't already know, it is "almost Impossible" to get a table at Rao's. Why. Cause Frankie says, "No" !!! Why is that? The tables at Rao's are all owned by people, who have owned table reservations for 4o years or more, like long time regulars, Steve Witkoff, and Bo Dietel, the famed NYPD Detective of East Harlan, New York.
Diesel and Witfoff and the other "Lucky Ones" one their table reservations, which were given to them for the loyalty (as regular customers) by the late Frank Pelligrino Sr., aka "Frankie No." The people who own any particular night are either there eating at "Their Table," or if they can't make it, they either sell their table for the night or give it to friends, which might include a slew of celebrities. Table holders also, don't their tables, for any particular night to various charities.
Yes, it's just about impossible to get a table at Rao's, but you can go and have a drink or. two at the bar. And though highly unlikely, if you ask, and wait around, you might get lucky, and get a table, and sit down and eat. "Good Luck."
BAMONTE'S
SINCE 1900
BROOKLYN, NEW YORK
EMILIO'S BALLATO
SINCE 1956
E. HOUSTON STREET
NEW YORK, NY
Copyright - Bellino 2025
GARGIULO'S
CONEY ISLAND
BROOKLYN, NEW YORK
Gargiulo’s Restaurant began in Coney Island in 1907, as a small family owned business located on Mermaid Avenue by the Gargiulo Family. It was the beginning of something that no one could have imagined.Throughout the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s, Gargiulo’s Grand Ballroom was the host of many weddings and other social functions. Patrons enjoyed making memories with good friends and great food.
The Russo Brothers began their foray into the hospitality industry in the early 1960’s, opening a 16 seat pizzeria on Nostrand Avenue. Da Luigi, an 80 seat venue, was their next location, which was very popular from its opening featuring their family recipes from Sorrento, Italy. As their sights were always set higher, the brothers looked for the next opportunity to expand their business.
Barbetta, established in 1906, is an iconic Italian restaurant in the heart of the Theatre District. Specializing in Piemonte Cuisine featuring the classics such as House-made Agnolotti, Risotto with White Truffle, and Blue a Barolo (Beef Braised in Barolo wine).
With more than 1,700 selections of predominantly Italian wines, as well as carefully curated American offerings, our extensive wine list has been honored with the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. The landmark brownstone features an elegant dining room, expansive garden patio and upper level private dining rooms suited for gatherings large and small.
Barbetta is open for Lunch on Wednesday and Saturday and Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Prix Fixe lunch and Pre-Theatre Dinner menus are available.
On September 23, 1894, one of the East Village’s longest-running businesses, Veniero’s Pasticceria, opened its doors. This venerable local institution has been serving confections, cakes, and pastries to New Yorkers and visitors ever since from its home at 342 East 11th Street, between 1st and 2nd Avenues, in the heart of what was once the East Village’s own Little Italy, and remains one of the few surviving businesses from that once-thriving community. Located just down the block from our offices, we have a special love for Veniero’s — from which we have been known to indulge in a treat from time to time (or more) — and a special insight into the beloved business’ rich history, thanks to an oral history that Veniero’s current co-owner Robert Zerilli, grand nephew of Veniero’s original founder, conducted with us in 2014.
Antonio Veniero immigrated to New York from Italy in 1885, in the period following Italian unification when poor Italians, especially southern Italians, began to leave the country en masse, seeking better lives and opportunities. At 15 years old, Antonio began working in a candy factory downtown. By 1894, he bought today’s 342 East 11th Street, a pre-old-law tenement built in 1865-66. Originally the business, then called Antonio Veniero Confections, was founded as a social club, complete with pool tables. Antonio sold homemade candy and espresso, the beans of which were roasted in the backyard. Veniero hired other Italian immigrants also skilled in confectionery. This part of the East Village was well populated with Italian immigrants, mostly Sicilian, although Antonio was from Naples. No. 342, which had residences above the ground floor, housed 13 families, all Italian immigrants or of Italian descent, according to the 1900 Federal census.
VENIERO'S PASTICCERIA
ITALIAN PASTRIES
East 11th Street, NY NY
The same census and 1900-1901 New York City directory show Antonio living with his wife and children across the street at No. 345, a no longer extant building. In his oral history, Robert Zerilliexplains that the business evolved from Antonio’s founding to serve baked goods such as biscotti and cakes, later renaming itself Veniero’s Pasticceri. Following Antonio’s death in 1931, the business would continue to be run by members of the family. In 1970, Frank Zerilli, Robert’s father and a cousin of the Venieros, bought the business. As a teenager, Frank Zerilli had worked in the bakery and learned a great deal working under Antonio.
Zerilli shares great stories of both the family and the neighborhood connected to Veniero’s, including Antonio’s managing to avoid firebombing by the Black Hand, (Mano Nero gang — a mafia extortion racket), neighborhood quarrels with other bakers and pushcart sellers, and a legal fight over the ownership of a coffee-sipping parrot.
Zerilli was born in 1962 and by that time his family lived in New Jersey. He would sometimes join his father for the workday in the East Village, and in his interview, Zerilli shared the sights, smells, and sounds of the East Village in his early years through the eyes of a child. One of the sounds that dominate his memories was the constant mix of English and Italian throughout the streets and small businesses in the area. As a teenager, he would work at Veniero’s, and lived in one of the apartments in the upper floors at No. 342, rent-free.
The neighborhood has changed quite a bit over the course of Zerilli’s tenure, and he talks about gentrification, as well as changing ethnicities and business and building ownership. On a side note, he mentions the East Village’s punk rock scene, and Joey Ramone coming to Veniero’s to buy a cake. Veniero’s itself has changed over the years too, adding items like red velvet cupcakes, which Zerilli discusses his reluctance to include. One of the many things that hasn’t changed, though, is that Veniero’s is still very much a family-run business, with Robert and his three sisters at the helm as co-owners.
